Porter Cable Templates and Triton

Another example of fitting Porter Cable style template guides to the Triton, first discussed here.

Template Guide Adaption

Template Guide Adaption

I happen to have a few spares of the Triton Template Guide Base Plate Aligner & Porter Cable Template Adapter (TGBPA&PCTA) (ok, so I made the name up), so instead of leaving them languishing in the Template Guide storage box, I fitted the most common template guides I have been using – the template for the Mortise Pal, and the Whiteside Inlay Kit.

Being able to mount the router bit before fitting the template guide (particularly given the need for rear access with the Porter Cable Templates for the threaded retaining ring) is a significant advantage.

A moment of clarity

I was (attempting) reading the Leigh Dovetail Jig manual the other day, when I had a moment of clarity.  The Leigh template guide does not fit the Triton routers, and that is unfortunate because Leigh have built into their template guide an eccentricity which allows for a very fine tuning of the fit, and accuracy of the dovetail jig.

My clarifying moment was that the new sub-base I was about to review, along with a number of different sized brass template guides from Professional Woodworkers Supplies, will take the Leigh adjustable template guide

Leigh Template Guide

(Image snapped on an iPhone, so sorry about the clarity)  As you can see (and I’ll do an actual review in time), the Woodpeckers Sub Base has a number of holes so it can fit a very wide range of routers on the market, including the Triton, and as part of that, allows a very common form of template guide to also be used.

Burl Clock

After having a couple of inquiries, thought I’d post a brief description of the Burl Clock, seen in the Gallery.

clock.jpg

The burl (and clock mechanism) were purchased at the Working with Wood show. Total cost: $40.  The mechanism came from Jonathon Knowles Clocks.

The face has been planed and sanded to get it reasonably flat, then the sanding to produce the finish. Each sandpaper grade was used, between 120 and 1200, all on a Triton Random Orbital sander.  The ROS is used because its eccentric sanding pattern doesn’t leave the telltale swirls (scratches) of a normal orbital sander.

The finish was produced first by rubbing Ubeaut Shellawax Cream across the face until the cloth started to grab. It was then buffed with a Ubeaut Swansdown mop attached to a drill. Next, Ubeaut EEE Ultrashine was used to produce a satin finish, again with the Swansdown mop.

The cavity for the clock mechanism was made using the Triton Router (handheld), using a template guide and straight router bit.

Some more tools Ebayed

Again, starting at 99c (sure hope I don’t get too burnt!)

pict6259.jpgpict6260.jpgpict6262.jpgpict6261.jpgpict6266.jpgpict6263.jpg28-jan-04-20.jpgpict6269.jpgpict6267.jpg

Triton Powered Respirator

250mm GMC SCMS

Triton Plunge Drill

Triton Router Template & Accessory Kit

Full description in the Ebay listing.

Edit – have added the GMC 12 1/2″ Thicknesser to the party

Edit2 – Added GMC Rotary Tool and GMC 2400W Blower-Vac

Triton Router Template Guides

There has been a bit of confusion about the Triton Router Template guide kit in a number of forum posts, so I thought I’d go through a few of the aspects here for the sake of clarity.

pict6016.jpg

This is the kit for the MOF001, the 1400W Triton Router.  However, I always recommend that owners buy this kit even if they have the larger 2400W router (although if you are in the US or UK, I would investigate the contents of this kit just to make sure my observations hold true over there).

The reason I strongly recommend this kit is

a. it is cheaper than the one for the TRA001

b. it contains ALL the contents of the TRA001 kit (and more)

c. if you end up with both routers, there is no need to get another kit!

pict6019.jpg

This is the heart of the system – the template guide base plate.  The Triton routers do not have the ability to fit a template guide in their standard as-sold configuration.  They need the addition of the template guide base plate to allow the guides to be fitted.  There is very little drawback from having the template guide baseplate fitted – you loose a tiny amount of plunge capacity, although there is a huge amount available, so this is unlikely to ever be missed.  The dust collection capacity of the router is maintained.  The only time I’ve felt a need to remove the baseplate was when I wanted to run a monster router bit, with a diameter larger than the hole in the template guide baseplate.  I don’t even rememeber which bit it was, as I’ve not had that problem since.

There are 2 baseplates shown here, and both come with the MOF001 kit.  The left-hand one is specifically for the 2400W router.  It can fit the 1400W router, but with some overlap at the edge. The baseplate for the larger router fits fully underneath the router plastic(?) baseplate.  The second (middle) baseplate shown is for the 1400W router.  This one fits into a recess in the plastic baseplate of the 1400W router (pic of this shown shortly).

The final ring is the baseplate alignment bush.  When you are first fitting the template baseplate, it must be absolutely centred on the collet, and this bush is used to achieve this (again, shown shortly).

pict6020.jpg

For either router, step one is to remove the four screws holding the plastic baseplate of the router.  There is often quite a bit of dust that has collected here, so worth cleaning out.  You can also see up the plunge tubes, and again, good opportunity to get any dust out of there that has collected, particularly if your router is normally table-mounted.  Another one of those occasions that an air compressor proves invaluable.

If you are fitting the baseplate for the 2400W router, it is placed directly on top of the router here, then the plastic baseplate is put back on top.

pict6022.jpg

If you are fitting the 1400W router baseplate, it is inserted into the recess of the plastic base.  There are a couple of tags that line up with the plate.  Note here, the recess in the template baseplate goes to the bottom of the router.  The 2 screws seen here are the ones used to hold the templates in position – it is not necessary to have them already screwed in place.

pict6024.jpg

The assembly is now placed back onto the router, but at this stage is not secured.  You then plunge the router so the collet protrudes through the base, and secure the  baseplate alignment bush into the template baseplate.  The two notches in this, and all the template guides are so you can get it past the screw heads.  Loosen the screws, drop the guide below the screw heads then rotate the guide so the notches are not lined up with the screws, then tighten the screws down.  For the alignment bush, this will, by default, cause the baseplate to be centred on the collet.  To remove, loosen the screws, twist the template guide so the notches are in line, then lift it clear.  Without the notches, you’d have to fully remove the screws every time to fit a new guide.

This centering is absolutely critical for template guides.  If the template guide is offcentre, you can be sure that the template will not work as required.  If it isn’t centered, then as you turn the router, the bit will be too far right, or left of where it should be according to the template you are trying to follow (leigh jig or otherwise).

You only use the alignment bush once – when securing the base plate in position.

You can now use the original screws to secure the baseplate to the router, and fitting the template guide baseplate is complete.

pict6025.jpg

Here, a template guide is shown fitted, with the router bit protruding through.  I’ll cover actually using template guides another time btw.

In some cases, you want to use the template guide with a router bit that is too large to fit through the hole in the guide.  In this case, you will put the bit through the template guide before actually fitting the guide, then tighten the collet on the bit, and then secure the template guide.

pict6026.jpg

You do need to ensure that the shaft length of your router bit is long enough to still be fully inserted into the collet.

As you may also see, the Triton template guides have gaps in them – this is so the dust collection system of the Triton router can still operate with the guides fitted.

There are 7 different template guide sizes in the Triton kit, and they are used with different router bits, and templates.  The smaller the template guide, the sharper the corner that can be achieved, but also the smaller the bit itself needs to be to fit.

So hopefully that helps answer any questions you have about fitting the Triton template guides!

Episode 12 Router Sign Writing

Episode 12 Sign Writing with the Router.

It is one of those things that many people want to do when they first buy a set of template guides for their router, and see the picture of router-carved words on the box. Or when you come across a well-made wooden sign, and you look at it wondering – How did they do that?

You don’t have to be an expert with carving chisels, and have the patience of a saint, so long as you have a reasonable kit of sign writing templates, a guide, and a router with a low centre-of-gravity (the small, cheap ones work really well)!

This video covers a few related topics, including templates and template guides, a sign-writing (commercial) jig, modifying a router (ok, I cut the plunge springs down), and of course, demonstrating using the jig.

%d bloggers like this: