Upgrading the DVR XP to wireless

I had an opportunity today to actually take the simple steps to upgrade my DVR to wireless.  Given my DVR came out before the wireless upgrade was available, it also needs the additional retro kit, which involves replacing the front panel (and one of the circuit boards within).

Nova DVR XP original head

The DVR is quite an amazing lathe – with the motor contained directly in the head of the lathe and with direct drive and computer speed control, it is an impressive arrangement.  Expect to see DVR motor technology utilised in other machines in the not-to-distant future.

Control panel

On new DVRs, the control panel is already wireless-ready, but it still needs an additional circuit board added.  These instructions are relevant for both the wireless-ready, and the retro kit required lathes.  Some steps are not relevant for both obviously – will point them out as we progress.

Step one is turning off, and unplugging the lathe.  You need to leave it at least 2 minutes for the circuits to fully de-energise. (The video by Teknatool suggests 5 minutes)

Loosen screws to release the control panel

Loosen the four screws on the sides of the panel.  They can be loosened, or fully removed (doesn’t matter which).  The panel is then gently rocked free of the lathe.  It still has a cable connecting it to the lathe, so be careful!

The motor control cable

This cable can now be disconnected.  Note which way around it goes (the red wire is always the #1 wire fwiw).  In this case, the #1 wire is towards the top of the control box.  The connector also has a tab to ensure it is returned the correct way up, but it is always good to keep track of the ribbon orientation as well.  It may be held in place with a dab of hot glue – easy enough to pick off with your fingernail.

Panel removed

Lathe looks a little strange with the panel removed – this is an aluminium plate affixed to the front which is used to secure the panel.

Wireless control with associated circuit, and retro kit

On the left is the remote control.  In the packaging, there is also a small circuit board that is paired to the control.  This is the wireless receiver.  (I’ll cover what to do if it is not paired further down)

On the right is the retro kit.  This is only needed for older DVRs as mentioned (pre August 2011).  At this point, those with a wireless ready DVR can skip ahead – we will get back to steps that are relevant to you in a sec!

Glue blob

Near the #1 wire here, you can see the hot glue blob that is used to ensure the cable doesn’t detach over time.  When unplugging the ribbons, you need to first pick off the glue blob.

Removed circuit board

The main circuit board is fully unplugged, then unscrewed.

Original circuit board attached to retro kit

This circuit board is then screwed to the same location on the retro kit panel (using the same screws).

So about now, DVR wireless ready owners can rejoin the party 🙂

Adding the wireless receiver

Next, the wireless receiver is pushed onto the pins that the circuit ribbon was removed from (the one I am holding).  Clever concept of how to add it into the circuit to be honest.  Very cool.

Connecting the circuit ribbon

The circuit-board ribbon plugs into the top of the wireless receiver.  You can see how the design is working at this point – the top PCB (printed circuit board) is the one with the display, the on/off and speed controls.  It passes directly through the new wireless receiver so the original controls work exactly as they used to.  However, the wireless receiver can receive instructions from the remote, and input them as if the relevant buttons on the front panel were pushed.

Attaching the ribbon, part A

Attaching the ribbon, part B

The ribbon is connected – the new version of the controller has a ribbon with an additional plug partway along.  This connects to the wireless receiver, and then the lower PCB.  Take careful note of the #1 wire (the red one).  It can be attached to the wireless receiver either way, but only one way will work.  The #1 wire needs to be towards the long side of the wireless receiver PCB.

Connect the motor control ribbon

Connect the motor control ribbon, then screw the whole control panel back to the front of the lathe.  You may discover that the remote is not paired to the wireless receiver (as was the case with my kit).  It is a very simple step to rectify.  Turn on the lathe (before the panel is screwed back onto the lathe).  Once it has gone through its bootup, try the remote.  To turn the lathe on, hold the start/stop button for 2 seconds.  If this does not start the lathe, it is likely that it is not yet paired.

To pair the transmitter and receiver, with the lathe switched on (but not running), push the pairing button on the wireless receiver PCB.

Pairing button

The pairing button is the little white one just above my finger in the photo.  Then within 60 seconds, push the power button on the remote.  You will hear some beeps, and then the two will be paired together.  Try to run the lathe again with the remote, and it should now work.

Screw the control panel onto the lathe, and enjoy giving the lathe a run remotely!

Ready to run…. remotely!

All attached, and first tests went well- namely using the lathe as it was originally, starting, stopping and speed control from the control panel.  One (minor) advantage of transferring the common circuit board from the original panel to the retro upgrade panel is all my preset speed settings were remembered.

Now with the remote control (either wrist-worn, or magnetically attached somewhere convenient), the lathe can be started and stopped from up to 7m away, and can be increased or decreased in speed in 10 RPM increments (initially).  The manual suggests the increments are 10-15 RPMs at a time, and it seems it depends on from what speed setting you are altering from.  Low RPMs, the increment is 10 RPM, high RPMs, seems to be increments of 15.  If you hold one of the speed-change buttons down, it behaves the same as if you held down the speed change button on the front of the lathe – the changes are slow at first, then increase in the amount of change (ie you can initially see the changes are 10 RPMs, but it soon becomes 100 RPMs at a time, so you can quickly accelerate up to the lathe’s highest speeds (or decelerate from there) by holding the speed change button on.

It is important to note what manual number you get with the kits.  If they are the 119-0811-001 manuals (as mine were), these are incomplete and have errors.  Teknatool R&D have produced a much better version of each manual, with a much clearer documentation of each step, using actual photos.  I have included the latest versions (as of when this article was written) here as PDFs.

DVR Wireless Remote Manual 17.08

DVR Wireless Remote Retro Fit Kit Manual 17.08

Now I don’t know if I will always use the remote – possibly not to be honest.  If I am working near the lathe head, and have easy access to the control panel I will still use that.  However when working away from the control panel (or when I would have to reach over a spinning workpiece to reach the controls, such as outboard turning), then the remote will be a god-send.  Kinda fitting, considering Teknatool and Nova come from Godzone!

I would think this remote would be useful for instructors as well – with a younger, or less confident operator, the instructor will have the ability to remote-stop a lathe without having to hover near the control panel.

Also too for experienced operators wanting to spin up something out of balance, or possibly compromised with hidden flaws and defects.  Instead of turning on the lathe and hopefully standing out of the line of fire if something lets go, you can stand well out of the line of fire, and even at a safe distance to test the integrity of a new piece of timber.

So a cool upgrade, and easily fitted to an existing DVR XP, whether or not it is already wireless-ready.

Teknatool produced a YouTube video of the upgrade, which can also be watched below:

Teknatool living up to its name

I don’t know the history of the name of the New Zealand company Teknatool, but if it has anything to do with technology (and innovation) and tools, then it seems pretty fitting.

Teknatool

Teknatool

The Nova DVR XP lathe I have is pretty complex – computer managed speed control, constant speed maintenance even under variable load conditions, chisel dig-in detection, and so on. The head of the lathe turns outboard allowing a decent size bowl or plate to be turned, and in a tightly packed shed like mine, this can lead to having to reach around or near the turning object to change speeds, or start/stop the lathe.

What I have now (yet to be fitted to the lathe), is a remote control, which can either be worn like a watch, or attached to the lathe or convenient nearby surface magnetically.

Remote

Remote

Wrist or magnetic mount

Wrist or magnetic mount

This remote control will allow me to start, stop and vary the lathe speed from up to about 7m away. No more reaching over the workpiece to access the controls if turning outboard, or finding myself down one end of the lathe and the controls up at the other.

The latest versions of the Nova DVR XP are wireless-ready (and have a sticker proclaiming the fact)

Remote Enabled

Remote Enabled

The Nova 2024 comes with the remote as part of the package (as far as I know).

Owners of XPs can purchase it as an optional extra. Now if you have an older Nova DVR XP which is not wireless enabled (which is my situation as well), then all is not lost. There is a retro-upgrade kit available which replaces the original control panel on the front of the lathe, which then means that wireless control can also be yours!

At this stage, it is unclear if the remote and/or upgrade kit will be available for Australian owners. When it was first announced I immediately asked CarbaTec in Melbourne if I could order one, and was told they were not going to be supplying them (and being the sole importer, that was pretty much that), but I am not sure if the position has changed. I would certainly hope so for the sake of other DVR XP owners out there (and future owners of the wireless enabled version of the DVR XP).

Retro

Retro

Retro upgrade

Retro upgrade

I haven’t had a chance to replace my existing controller as yet – been a bit busy unfortunately, but I will document the (simple) process when I do.

And then…..wireless lathe control will be mine, all mine (cue manic laugh).

cue manic laugh

cue manic laugh

Lockjaw

I was having a look at my workbench, and couldn’t see it for all the tools and accessories over it. There was a large collection of jaws, chucks and turning chisels all over it. Time for some cleanup!

I am struggling to figure out where I will actually mount storage, but that is a problem for another day. In the meantime, I first chose to look at the storage of the jaw sets. I could just have them tossed into a sectioned box (or continue to be stored in their significantly oversized boxes they are sold in), but instead decided to explore a more visual storage method.

Lathe Jaw Storage

Lathe Jaw Storage

I’ve used dowels (2 per jaw) to retain the jaw in place, and have located them with the mounting rings where appropriate.

Workholding on the Lathe

It would come as no surprise that one of the absolutely critical aspects of woodturning, is to be able to adequately secure what you are turning to the lathe, so it doesn’t move, fly off, cause damage or injury.

There is a myriad of ways to secure the work, some of the decisions will be based on personal preference, and some are obviously specific to the size and shape of the item to be turned, and the intended product.

A small selection of timbers

Displayed here is just a small selection of the sorts of shapes that could be expected to be mounted.  There are bowl blanks on the left – one that was sold precut, with a waxed outer to discourage checking and cracks, the other was from a board that I cut square, then rounded off the corners on the bandsaw.

There are some lengths for various spindle turnings (pepper grinders or whatever), perhaps a small vase, and some raw (dry) timber from the branch of a tree.  Much of what is here is already pretty much lathe-ready – there is a whole extra layer to this when you take a round from a tree trunk and plot out the various bowl shapes before slicing with bandsaw or chainsaw.

It would go without saying, the bigger the blank, the more secure you really want it to be!

Nova Chucks and Jaws

To mount a wide variety of timber shapes, there is an equally elaborate range of chucks, jaws and drives. The range of Nova jaws can be found here (NovaJaws PDF)

Some that can be seen here are faceplate rings (for 50, 100 and 130mm jaws), small, medium and large jaws, a variety of drives and centres, Cole jaws and a faceplate.

Jaws fit onto chucks, which in turn screw to the thread of the driven end of the lathe.  Drives and centres have a morse taper which fit into a matching hole in the drive shaft and tail stock respectively.  As is true for so many products out there, it is hard to get any consistency between brands.  Fortunately the morse taper is a standard maintained across a wide range of brands.  They are termed MT1, MT2, MT3 etc depending on diameter & taper angle.  MT1 is used for very small lathes, MT2 (morse taper 2) is by far the most common. The same cannot be said for the threaded portion of the drive.  Different diameters, different pitches, no consistency.  Yet you want to not only be able to use some of the quality chucks out there, but also to be able to continue to use them if and when you upgrade to other lathes.

Chuck Inserts

How a number of chuck manufacturers get around the issue (and Teknatool is no different) is to make their chucks with a rather large female thread, with the intention that you then choose the insert that matches your specific lathe.  In the photo here is a Supernova2, and three different inserts – one for the DVR XP, one for the Jet Mini, and the third I have NO idea.  The total range of inserts available for the Nova range is something like 20 or so, and even then if you don’t have one that matches you particular lathe, there is also one that has not been machined so you can get a machine shop (fitter-turner) to make one that is specific to your unusual model.

Turning between centres

Pretty much every lathe sold comes with the ability to turn between centres – not because it is the most common method of turning, but it is the cheapest mounting option so the manufacturers don’t have to fork out for an expensive chuck.  It has a drive at one end (fitted with the morse taper) and a centre in the end stock which pushes the workpiece onto the drive.  The centre can either be dead (as in non-rotating), or live.  Live is typically a lot more preferable!

4 Blade Drive

Transferring the motor power to the timber with a drive – it has a centre pin, and a number of blades to turn the timber.  These blades can very easily become real blades – chiseling the timber rather than turn it.

I prefer a different sort of drive – the Steb drive.

Steb Drive

This has a spring-loaded centre pin, then lots of little teeth to bite into the work.  I currently only have a small diameter version, but will look to find a meatier version now I have the larger, more powerful lathe.

Turning Between Centres

The tailstock provides the pressure to push the work onto the drive.

Conical Live Centre

A basic live center pushes into the work, going as deep as the pressure and the material will allow.

Live Centre

An alternate version has a very sharp point to position the live centre – this will push easily into the endgrain until the outer ring also impacts on the work, and it is this ring that transfers significant amount of force onto the end of the work without digging in anywhere near as much as the more basic cone centre.

For a very flexible, versatile system, the Nova Live Centre system is definitely worth considering.

Nova Live Centre System

With all sorts of options to suit a wide variety of turning requirements. Their latest addition to the range is the tailstock chuck adapter.

Chuck Adapter

This fits into the Nova tailstock and has a thread to match the Nova chuck.  Once you have turned the base of your bowl and want to rotate it to turn the inside, this adapter allows you to very accurately mount the chuck before releasing the bowl, meaning the workpiece can be flipped end-for-end without finding it is slightly out-of centre requiring some rework.

Accurately reversing a bowl

Jaw/Chuck Mounting

If not turning between centres, you can use jaws, with or without the tailstock supporting the work.  Even very thin work can be mounted this way, it is a matter of choosing jaws that match the workpiece.

Pin Jaws

These pin jaws are ideal for small pieces, with a large grip area and a dovetailed tip.  That dovetail means the jaws are also useable in the expansion mode, gripping a workpiece from the inside of a cavity machined into the bottom.

Thin Stock

The tail stock is still used to support the workpiece.  A great setup for dollshouse furniture!

Larger pieces just need larger jaws 🙂

45mm Spigot Jaw

Gripping work like this is still using the jaws in the contracting mode.  It doesn’t matter that the work isn’t round in the jaw- they will bite in significantly to hold the work tight.  These jaws have a lot of bulk, so can offer a powerful grip.

Even if you want to grip a whole branch, there are jaws with sufficient capacity to do this easily.  The Powerjaws are a powerful addition to the Supernova2 chuck.

Powerjaws

These have a stack of gripping capacity, matching that of the Supernova2 chuck.

Measuring the Jaws

To mount up the lump of Cyprus Pine, I first measured the maximum jaw opening, using the offset fingers of the new Woodpeckers Story Stick Caliper Arm Set. These seem rather interesting in their application for wood turners, as well as the concept they were originally designed for.  By setting the internal diameter of the jaw, the other side of the arms can be used to check the external diameter of the timber.

External width check

In this case, the timber was too large to be fitted directly into the jaws while square so it had to be first mounted between centres to turn a tenon to grip in the Powerjaws.

Between Centres

Ready for turning the tenon

Roughing down

With the amount of force the roughing gouge imparts on the work, I didn’t want to rough down any more than was necessary – between centres causes enough slippage with the lack of grip the 4 blade drive actually has.

Turning the Tenon

Other than turning to round, there was very little that had to be removed from the diameter to fit the jaws.

Confirming the fit

With the Story Stick again, the size of the tenon is confirmed as fitting the jaws.

Slippage

Even roughing a small amount, this timber is pretty hard and the drive finds it very difficult to grip.  This is rather evident in the amount the blades have chiseled out – indicating significant slippage.

Mounted

With the tenon cut, the Powerjaws can then come in and grab the workpiece with significant power.  The rest of the roughing down then becomes very easy – no chance of slippage now!

Round

Once round, the real work can begin, but that is a job for another day.

Bowl Mounting.

Like mounting a length of timber, mounting a bowl takes a little preparation.  By starting with a temporary mount, the base can be turned and the method by which the bowl will be mounted for turning the inside.

Bowl Mounts

One method for starting a bowl is by using a screw drive. Here are two versions – the Nova version which is then gripped in the chuck jaws, and one that fits directly into the morse taper.  A small pilot hole is drilled in the centre then the screw drive is attached.

Screw Drives

The Nova is significantly more substantial, and although morse tapers typically don’t slip (when coupled with the use of the tailstock), the Nova one is positively gripped and with the significant thread can really hold a piece hard.

Another popular method is the use of a faceplate.  This one is the Nova version which came with the DVR XP

Faceplate

It attaches by screwing directly onto the drive thread of the lathe.  Now an interesting method is the use of a faceplate ring, which I particularly like.

Faceplate Rings

Here is a 50mm ring about to be attached, and in the foreground a 100mm and 130mm ring.  These sizes match that size jaw.  The 130mm ring is significant indeed, with provision for 12 screws to grip the work.

Bowl blank mounted

With the faceplate ring fitted, it is then gripped with the jaws in expansion mode and the base can be turned.

Preparing base

I’ve switched blanks here if you are wondering how the camphor laurel suddenly became mahogany!  With a pencil and the lathe spinning, the diameter of the jaws is marked onto the base.

Dovetail Scraper

A dovetail scraper is used to cut a recess with a taper, so that when the bowl is flipped around, the jaws can expand and grip the base without it being likely to slip off.  This is one method for bowl mounting.  The other is to turn a tenon which can be gripped by the jaws contracting onto it.

Reversed

You’d normally finish the base before rotating and remounting the bowl, but for the sake of this article, I’ve reversed it already.  The cole jaws are not being used here at all, it is the 50mm jaws gripping the base.  At this stage the faceplate ring would be removed, then the hollowing can begin.

130mm Jaw Mount

In this case, I actually want to mount the bowl in the 130mm jaws, so I have reversed the bowl again and now cut a very large diameter dovetailed opening in the base.

Demo

And just to demonstrate this, I’ve mounted the 130mm jaws and chuck into this opening.  You don’t normally do this (although with the new tailstock adapter, this will become more common, but with the chuck mounted in the tailstock to ensure a very accurate alignment.

So a bit of a look at workpiece mounting, and it has been a quick gloss over the subject.  There are whole books dedicated to the subject!

However, hopefully it has provided some ideas and insights, particularly into the Nova chucks and jaws.  The interchangeability of the G3 and Supernova2 and all the jaws that are available demonstrates just how comprehensive their system is.

Episode 83 Nova DVR XP

Episode 83 Nova DVR XP
This is NOT a video about good lathe technique! It is a bit of a look at how good the DVR XP is in the hands of an amateur.

Nova DVR 2024

Found some more information this morning on the new DVR 2024 that has obviously gone up overnight.

Not too bad with respects to my (untimely?) purchase of the XP on the same day as the new one was announced in the US. (Whew)  It also sounds like the 2024 is an addition to the range, and not a replacement of the XP.

The top speed has been increased from 3500RPM to 5000RPM, and there are now 10 preset-able favourite speeds, rather than 5.  Onboard capacity has been increased from 16″ to 20″ and outboard (swung head) capacity from 29″ to 33″ (838mm), still with a 2HP DVR motor. (DVR = Digital Variable Reluctance)

There is the new remote control – wrist-mounted and also magnetic so can be attached near where you are working.  On/off and speed control. Compatible with all Nova DVR lathes.

Nova Remote

Big news, is the return of

THE TITAN

The 5″ diameter chuck monster as the behemoth of the Nova Chuck range

Teknatool Nova Titan Chuck

Love that term “behemoth”, but not to be confused with the Polish blackened death metal band of the same name from Gdańsk

The Titan, the Behemoth and the SuperNova

Get a Grip

Spun up the replacement SN2, and no fault with this one- jaws are not sloppy, and the chuck (and jaws) spins true.

So it was back to seeing what the PowerJaws could do. Took a chunk of cyprus pine and without supporting the tail (which is obviously not best practice!), nor did I turn down the end to circular to mount in the jaws (which would have been a good idea in hindsight), I turned away.

20110625-122148.jpg

First reducing the end to round, then started forming the tiny goblet on the end.

20110625-122303.jpg

The jaws have significant power, there is no question of that. And the Mini Jet has no difficulty with the SuperNova2 chuck either.

20110625-122424.jpg

So with the combination of jaws and chuck, did we get a grip? You better believe it!

20110625-122530.jpg

Exploding Suns

I’ve had reason to dive into the inner workings of the Teknatool SuperNova2 (SN2) lathe chuck, having experienced some weird results from what is meant to be a precision machined tool. The runout I was getting from a brand new chuck was both unacceptably high and much higher than the G3 chucks I have (which are also Teknatool fwiw).  The SuperNova2 is unquestionably a good chuck, so my experience is definitely an aberration.

I have exchanged the chuck for another SN2, and one who’s jaws are no where near as sloppy as the first chuck – hopefully that is a sign of the main point of difference between them.  To qualify my experience, I tried a number of jaws on the SN2 and two G3 chucks, using the same insert and it was only the SN2 that had an issue.  The body is probably fine – it is the moveable jaws that will be where the fault lay.

In the meantime, we (some of the staff at Carbatec and I) had a look under the hood of the SN2.  I was very surprised with what I found!  I’m not sure what I was expecting – some significant point of difference in the operation to the G3 perhaps.

SuperNova2 and G3 chucks

SuperNova2 and G3 chucks

The SN2 (on the left) is a larger chuck, with quite a bit more weight with the extra material, and a cover to discourage dust from entering into the mechanism.  It takes a hex key to adjust the jaws.

The G3 on the right seems a lot more primitive – no dust guarding, and the key to operate has teeth to mesh with the geared ring inside the chuck through two holes.

However, when the circlip was removed and the plastic cover popped off, inside the two chucks looked remarkably similar.

SuperNova2 internals

SuperNova2 internals

The plastic ring keeps two small gears captive, that once removed results in the SN2 looking exactly like a slightly larger G3.  Got me thinking!  Just how interchangeable are the components?

SuperNova & G3 Part Swap

First, I tried the gear from the SN2 in the G3.  It fitted, although protruded about 5 mm.  The black plastic cover which keeps these gears captive also fitted….sort of – it protruded around the circumference for obvious reasons.  The hole left in the SN2 where the gear came from looked very familiar, which got me wondering if the G3 handle could be used on the SN2.

Interchangeable Handles Lathe Chuck

Interchangeable Handles Lathe Chuck

Yup!

Guess the moral of that story is, if you have both the G3 and SN2, you can use the same G3 handle for both chucks if necessary.  Parts can also be scavenged from one to repair the other. Wish I could have a look at a Titan now!

SuperNova2 Disassembled

It did convince me of one thing.  Given the parts are the same, the method of operation is as well, then both the G3 and the SN2 should have the same amount of jaw movement (when slack), and the same maximum amount of runout.  Seeing as the original SN2 I had was significantly worse than both G3s, then it definitely made sense to exchange the unit.

Look forward to testing the new chuck, and hopefully this can be the end of the mini-drama, and I can get back to focusing on the turning!

I also feel a LOT better about the G3 – given it is a near identical (although shrunk) sibling of the SN2, I don’t feel owning them is a real compromise – both are equally competent lathe chucks.

A Simple Form

With both a new chuck, and a new German spindle gouge (Hamlet brand) from Carbatec, I felt inspired to try another turning.  Looking around the shed, I spied a round of Huon Pine that I bought a couple of years ago, with the intention of turning a bowl when I felt confident enough not to completely waste the timber.

Just as an aside, I like the German gouge, but the SuperNova2 is faulty – too much runout for what is meant to be a high quality tool.  Guess Teknatool shouldn’t have outsourced manufacturing to China.  (Teknatool is a New Zealand company, and the products used to be made on those green shores).  So the new chuck will be getting exchanged – hope the next one is better.  If you are curious, I tried a number of different jaw sets on this chuck, then on a G3 (using the same insert), and the difference in runout was quite noticeable.   The extra amount of problem I had in turning this bowl, with the blank trying to jump all over the place. But I still got there 😉

Mounted Huon Blank

I started in my normal way – attaching the mounting ring to the top face, then gripping it in the chuck jaws. The blank was actually too big for my lathe, so needed to cut away about 10-15mm of the diameter on the bandsaw just to get it to fit.  With the blank mounted, I only had a mm or so clearance to to tool rest when I first started turning.  I really need that bigger lathe!

Offcuts from the Size Tweak

Offcuts from the Size Tweak

Shaping the Base

Shaping the Base

The base started getting shaped, working the tool rest around the bowl to continue to have the chisel at the right angle to the bowl (there is no curved rest for this sized lathe).

Finishing the Base

Finishing the Base

The base is fully shaped, sanded and finished, with a dovetailed cavity cut to fit the jaws when the bowl is reversed.  Not sure what happened next – guess I got carried away with what I was doing – forgot to take another photo until the bowl was completed!  In the background here, you can see the Microclene air filtration unit keeping me safe from the dust.

Some Shavings

Some Shavings

There wasn’t a huge pile of shavings after this job – enough to see some work had been done!

What was, and what's inside

What was, and what's inside

The bowl is finished using the Ubeaut rotary sander, working from 80 grit through to 320, then with a combination of EEE and Shellawax cream to get a polished finish.

Resulting Polished Bowl

Resulting Polished Bowl

So my first real, traditionally shaped bowl.  The wall thickness may be a bit more than I’d like, but that comes down to experience and practice.

A Traditional Form

A Traditional Form

Although Huon Pine is reasonably plain, it still has plenty of subtle details, and this piece also had a knot to one side.  During the turning, I found the knot had started floating, so before it had a chance to dislodge completely, I stabilised it with Cyanoacrylate (SuperGlue) and accelerator.

Detail in the Timber

Detail in the Timber

Turning on a lathe is a very satisfying process, and you can typically come away with a fully finished product by the end of a session.

Spigot Turning

I mentioned recently that I found myself with a set of spigot jaws for my Nova lathe chuck. So I decided to find out what all the fuss was about, and try them out. (Made in New Zealand 🙂 )

Without going into much detail yet (have more to learn myself!), the spigot jaws can grip the end of a round blank very tightly, allowing you to work on the side, and end of the blank, without using a tailstock.

I first mounted the blank between centres and turned it round, and roughly shaped what I hoped was a goblet. The timber was Huon pine, purchased so I could experiment and have the only problems I come across being my errors, rather than some difficulties from the timber itself clouding the issues.

Next, it was mounted in the spigot jaws (and already I can see why people buy more than one chuck, just so they don’t have to keep swapping jaws over!)

Cutting a long story short (and leaving out all the catches etc that I had), this is what I managed to finish with:

pict6103.jpg

For a first effort, I’m pretty happy with it, but I still have a long way to go.

It isn’t an egg cup, but here is a photo with one, just so you get an idea of scale!

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(And no, it isn’t a Moa or a Kiwi egg)!

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