It’s been a little while since I had a good look around the HNT Gordon website.  I’ve known about some (but not all) the new planes in the range, but haven’t mentioned here for some time.  I have a number of HNT Gordon planes in my workshop – certainly plan to have some more in time!

First plane to mention are the dado planes.  There are three sizes available (1/4″, 1/2″ and 3/4″)

HNT Gordon Dado Plane

Dado plane detail

This could be the most complicated plane in the range!  From front to back (and in the second photo, this is from right to left), there is a scoring blade (called a nicker), which slices a groove with twin knife-edges on either side of the dado.  This ensures a very clean, crisp edge to the dado, with the fibres scored and sliced rather than chipped.  The amount of extension of the nicker is controlled with the knurled knob on top of the plane.

The next feature back is a depth-control plate. When the dado is precisely to the required depth, the plate rubs on the top surface, preventing the dado plane cutting deeper.

Third and finally is the blade, which standard for HNT Gordon planes cuts at a 60o angle with a thick blade to avoid chatter.  What is different is the blade is skewed at 20o, so it slices rather than chips.

The next plane I’ve found on the site is the Radius Plane

HNT Gordon Radius Plane

Radius plane sole

This plane is one with a single purpose.  Well all planes could be described that way, but this one is made specifically to shape the seat of a Windsor chair (and any other similar function).  I have seen all sorts of jigs to try to get a router to scallop out a chair curve, but sometimes the traditional way is the best way, and that is what this plane is all about.  No ridges, powdered timber, extensive sanding, excessive noise.  The subtle “schick” sound of a well tuned plane functioning perfectly.

Terry has also tackled moulding planes, with a set of hollows and rounds from 1/4″ to 1 1/4″ in 1/4″ increments, and a snipe bill plane to start the process.

Moulding plane set

It is surprising just how many profiles can be created with a few hollows and rounds.  There is a new book on Lost Art Press just on the topic of creating a wide variety of profiles with such a set.

Terry Gordon also has developed some spokeshaves in the past few years.  A larger one, either flat-bottomed or curved, and a fine spokeshave for getting into the tightest of spaces.

HNT Gordon Spokeshave (curved or flat)

Fine spokeshave

Other planes to come include a moving fillister (also known as an adjustable rabbet plane), a dovetail plane, and a plow plane.  A plow plane is the precursor of the modern router for joinery – cutting grooves and narrow rabbets).  Will be very interested to see how Terry tackles each of these.

So that is it (at this stage), so many planes to tempt you, made from stunning timbers and each that work better than you could possibly expect.  They can be found, and ordered from the HNT Gordon website.

Episode 75 Wood River Spokeshave

Episode 75 Wood River Spokeshave

Swedish Wagon Wheel Maker

One of the site’s regulars (Frank) pointed me to this fascinating video from 1932 of a Swedish Wagon Wheel Maker. It is old (obviously), jumpy (equally obviously) and really interesting to see how it used to be done!

I couldn’t figure out how to embed the video here, so jump across to their site and see some real woodworking practices from yesteryear!

Swedish Wagon Wheel Manufacture

Swedish Wagon Wheel Manufacture

Completing the Wheel

Completing the Wheel

Handplanes, a quick look

I’ve been avoiding this topic for quite a while, as much because there are so many knowledgeable people about there who live and breath these traditional tools, that I know I won’t be able to do them justice. But putting that aside, there is a surprisingly large learning curve to traditional tools and what they are capable of.

Woodworking has been around a lot longer than our planers and thicknessers, tablesaws, routers, drop saws etc etc. How wood was shaped and worked was often with handtools, and a group that has survived the ages are handplanes. Of the vast majority of traditional handtools that existed, at least you can still walk into a hardware store and buy one. How good they are is another matter entirely, but there are still some quality handtools around.

I said recently that I’m a bit of a strange fish where it comes to some things, and this is no exception. I came across a toolmaker at the Melbourne Wood Show a few years ago, and was really inspired by what could be achieved with such a basic form. He was (and is) Terry Gordon, and I really enjoy owning and using some of his planes. (HNT Gordon Planes).

So onto planes themselves. I mainly only have HNT Gordon planes to show you at this stage to highlight my points. In a roundabout way, this is another aspect of the start of the sharpening exposé. After all, when you are talking about sharpening, there has to be something that needs to be sharp!

It is said that there are the big 4 planes that all complement each other, and all fill different roles.

They are: the smoothing plane, the trying plane, the shoulder plane, and the low-angle block plane. In addition, I’d add the spokeshave, and the jack plane to complete the basic set. (And at this stage, I still need to add a spokeshave and jack plane to complete my set!)


Now I know that what I have here do not look like the planes you normally expect to see, but other than quite a different looking form to the modern plane, they still perform the same function.


I also really like the fact they come in such a traditional looking box…

The left-hand plane is the low-angle block plane. The low angle makes it very good for end-grain, and given it’s small size, is very convenient for a number of quick shaving jobs (like taking off the edge of a board)

The plane on the right is the shoulder plane. It is unusual, because the blade gets right to the edge of the plane itself, so planing the shoulder of a tenon is achievable (and where it gets its name from). It can also be used to cut a rebate, or a dado.

The last two planes really do complement each other, and as you can see, look quite like each other, just different sizes. They do have different functions. The large plane is called a Trying Plane, and is used to flatten a board. Because of its length, it rides across high spots, allowing them to be planed down, rather than following the rise and fall and just smoothing them. It can remove quite a bit of material quickly, and is the original version of what we know as a jointer (or planer) when talking about powered tools.


The other is a smoothing plane. Capable of removing the finest of shavings, and leaving a surface so smooth and shiny, that only a light touch with 400 – 600 grit sandpaper is needed before reaching for the finish.


The smoothing plane can cut so fine, that you can easily read through the shaving it produces.

So these are the 4 planes, and each needs a razor sharp blade to function. In the case of the trying and smoothing planes, I have a very thick chunk of high quality steel, and for the smoothing plane in particular, I chose a cryogenically treated steel. Bloody hard to sharpen (because it is so hard), but it holds a beautiful edge. I sharpen these on Japanese waterstones, using the Veritas Mk2 Honing jig. (The blades are so thick, you can pretty easily do it by hand, but I don’t get enough practice to trust myself.)


Here in this final image, I decided to measure the thickness of the shaving I was getting off the smoothing plane. You might be able to see it, reading 0.01mm, or in other words approximately 4/10000th of an inch (ie about 1/2 a thousandth of a inch). I’m probably beyond the capabilities of the gauge to measure that fine. I think that is thin enough!

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