PS Tools Mini Lathe

The PS Tools Variable Speed Mini Lathe, from Pop’s Shed doesn’t make for too bad a starting point for a new turner, both with the convenience of variable speed, as well as the accessories that Pop’s Shed bundle with it.  The price is $695 (including around $100 worth of chisels, a $75 keyless Jacob’s Chuck, and about $125 worth of mini lathe chuck) which brings the lathe itself down to around $400 in value.  The Jet VS is around $675 without accessories fwiw, and doesn’t include the speed readout.

With Pen Blank, Ready for Turning

The lathe uses the standard #2 morse taper for mounting tools, which makes it easy to upgrade or add other live centres, drive spurs, drill chucks etc and has a threaded section on the drive shaft for various jaw chucks.   The head speed indicator was a particularly interesting inclusion, something that isn’t on the VS Jet, and although not essential, as Nova Lathe users will probably testify it is useful getting accurate speed readings, at least in some circumstances.  I certainly liked being able to dial-in a specific speed, and found myself wishing I had a variable speed unit on my Jet lathe.

Mini Chuck

The mini-chuck is a smaller version of a standard self-centering chuck, and it comes with 4 different jaw sets, as well as a mounting plate (used by screwing directly to the timber for odd shapes etc that cannot be otherwise mounted on the lathe).

Mini Chuck Accessories

If compared to a full-sized chuck (such as the Nova G3) and the equivalent jaw sets, it is quite a saving although with considerable less capacity.  However, on a mini-lathe it at least ensures you are not tempted to grossly exceed the lathe’s capabilities.

Keyless Jacobs Chuck

The keyless Jacob’s Chuck was actually rather interesting.  Without getting inside it to see about the quality of the build, it seemed to operate smoothly, and the jaws closed down to pretty much zero clearance (allowing the smallest of drill bits to be mounted).  Drilling on a lathe has a fundamental difference to drilling on the drill press.  Instead of the chuck revolving with the drill bit, it is (rotationally) stationary, and instead the workpiece revolves.  The drill bit is wound into the revolving workpiece via the tail stock thread.

On this lathe (and sadly with a number of threaded tools coming out of China), they don’t seem to be able to make a really smooth operating thread.  I may at some stage see if I can get the tail stock apart and see if the thread can be cleaned up so it operates smoother.  It works as is, but there is working, and then working well.

Speed Sensor Wheel

Inside the headstock there is this toothed wheel next to the belt drives.  The belts still have 3 pulleys, so the variable speed can be set to one of three speed ranges, covering a total speed range of around 600RPm to 3000RPM.  The method for determining speed is the same as old (ie non laser/optical) computer mice, using a light transmitter/receiver shining through a toothed wheel and the rate the light is strobed is used to calculate head speed.

Beginner Tool Set

The chisel set has the more popular chisel types (bowl gouge, roughing gouge, skew, parting tool, scraper, spindle gouge), and will get you started.  As your skills develop, you’ll want to start replacing the chisels you most commonly use with better quality (ie expensive) ones, but having a basic set such as this will at least give you a feel for the different types, and plenty of sharpening practice without doing so on an expensive chisel.  (Given the entire set is worth around $100, and a decent chisel costs about that individually, I’m not being unreasonably harsh).  This set will get you started on the journey (and trust me, wood turning is a slippery slope!)

In checking the lathe itself, I started by turning the fire-pen from Rockler, and it went smoothly until I got down to near the end.  I found the pen was slightly off-centre, but I am putting that down to user error – I hadn’t mounted the pen spindle as central as I needed to, because when I checked the alignment of the head and tail stock, I couldn’t see any problem there.

Head Stock / Tail Stock alignment

Checking how the head drive spur and live centre in the tail stock line up is one of the fundamental checks if a lathe is made properly, and the PS Tools lathe had no issues there, as you can see from the above-photo.

I’ve had some off-line comments sent through about another brand that looked very similar to this lathe, and I will keep an eye on those pickup points, but at this stage I haven’t experienced any of the problems mentioned, and it may just be a case of similar models/brands, but not the same.

Pop’s Shed Lathe

PS Lathe

With all the (non shed related) happenings this week, I haven’t been able to commission the PS Tools lathe yet, but hope to rectify that shortly.  I did get to plug it in and push the on button!

I could really become a fan of variable speed lathes – the ease of changing speeds (without having to change belts) is really refreshing.  The speed readout is also not based on the controller, but the actual speed of the shaft.  This means that if turning a larger item (or placing more load on it with aggressive cuts), the speed readout reflects the actual RPM being achieved.  It does this with a toothed wheel inside the lathe head mounted directly to the shaft, and a light sensor circuit that counts and times each tooth.  The same principle was used in computer mice pre optical and laser days.

The lathe still has 3 belts, so you can get 3 ranges of variable speeds, from the slowest around 650RPM right up to 3000RPM.

Sitting on top of the Torque Workcentre is not it’s usual position (too high), but the juxtaposition is deliberate even so.  I have an idea about using the lathe, with the overhead router for turning helices, and also for cutting evenly positioned flutes.

Something to mull over.  In the meantime, I will get to a better introduction to the lathe, and all the accessories it comes with shortly.

Extending the Lathe

When I first got the Jet Mini lathe, it was to replace the GMC that I had, and one thing that I wanted to do was add the extension bed to the Jet to get a full 1000mm capacity.  At some stage I’d like a full sized lathe, but in the meantime, the Jet Mini will certainly suit my current requirements (and will still have a place even if I do end up with a larger one).

Jet Mini Lathe with Stand

Jet Mini Lathe with Stand

I’ve been putting the extension in the too-hard basket for over a year – mainly because the extension cost $100, and I couldn’t see how it was possibly justified to ask another $100 for the couple of components to extend the lathe stand to take the extra extension.

I certainly didn’t subscribe to the suggestion from the retailer that it is generally left hanging in mid-air.  Seemed a stupid proposal at best.  It didn’t help that the extension I was sold turns out not to be for the model of Mini lathe they had sold me, so I had to work out my own way of joining the two beds together.

In the end, I opted for high tensile bolts and with a bit of fussing, got the two beds aligned nicely, and seemingly sufficiently joined that there won’t be any movement in the joint over time.

Next came the real problem – extending the stand to cope with the extra length of the new lathe bed.  If I had some metal fabrication capacity that would have made life a lot easier, but I don’t have the essentials – primarily a welder. So the problem just sat there, waiting for a solution to turn up, and on Friday it did.

Lathe with Extension and Stand Extension

Lathe with Extension and Stand Extension

Work was about to throw out a stand that has clogged up a space for about 4 years, and I couldn’t bring myself to just allow the components to go without seeing if there was anything useful.  It was as I was dismantling it that I suddenly twigged that one of the parts looked just like I would expect the genuine lathe stand extension component would look like.  It even looked like it just might be long enough.  When I meansured it up, it was close – very very close, and the 45mm it was short I decided I could adapt the existing stand layout enough to compensate, without compromising its integrity.

All that was needed were some new holes, and some more bolts to hold the extra parts.

Drilling Holes

Drilling Holes

The main idea that I had was to use the previous horizontal member, and turn it vertically to support the joint in the extended lathe bed.  The fact that the new horizontal member was a substantial square RHS so could easily take the loading made it a no brainer.

Base Adapter

Base Adapter

The one thing I did decide was to use the original horizontal member unaltered, and because it was not as wide as the base of the lathe, it made more sense to have its flange at 90 degrees to the base, and therefore the holes couldn’t be used to join them together.  So what I did was fabricate this piece with two holes (top and bottom) for the lathe, and the other two for the flange.

Now this is where it all will make a bit more sense.

Extending the Lathe Stand

Extending the Lathe Stand

This is the interum step with everything in place, but resting – waiting for holes to be drilled for the bolts.

Extended Lathe and Stand

Extended Lathe and Stand

And finally (and it doesn’t look that different from the previous photo), this is the final result, all bolted together, and very stable (and rather heavy to boot).

Now I just have to find a new location for the grinder, and I need more of that rubber mat!

It’s a great feeling to finally finish off a job that has been hanging over my head for so long.  Now I just have to get back to learning how to use the thing!! (Properly that is!!)

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