You don’t see that every day

A Torque Workcentre Router Master, and some TWC accessories (couple are prototypes) have now been added to the Tool Sale page.

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Hunter-Gatherers

These days, if you want vegetables to cook, they are laid out in the supermarket. Lettuce is sold pre-shredded in bags, meat in plastic-wrapped packages, cheese in tubes, even water in bottles. It may be convenient, but we have lost that ability, even the drive to be hunter-gatherers. Even many woodworkers are guilty of being tempted by the convenience of modern pre-prepared timbers, ripped and dressed all round, some coming plastic wrapped, even pre-cut ready for joining together.

But behind the temptations, there must also be a sadness that when they do come across a felled tree, sitting on the side of the road, they know not only how much timber is just sitting there waiting for someone, but also that this is free timber in a world of overpriced rubbish. When they have no ability to harvest the timber, they have to drive on, leaving the find for someone luckier.

Having access to a slabbing machine would open the floodgates to cheap and free timber, but these are typically thousands of dollars, and for a smaller scale woodworker, that is likely to be a lifetime of timber, so impossible to justify. However, if you are an owner of a Torque Workcentre, and have a chainsaw, then for only $200 for the slabbing jig, you will have a slabbing machine of your own, able to handle lengths up to approximately 0.5m shorter than the length of your workcentre (eg 3 metre slab if you have a 3.5 metre workcentre).

The slabbing attachment is very simple, and it can be because of the inherent properties of the Torque Workcentre itself. The workcentre has a very solid base, able to support significant loads. The tool support arm that slides the length of the table is very heavy duty, and travels smoothly on 10 bearings creating a solid platform for the slabbing jig to attach to.

The slabbing jig holds the chainsaw securely by gripping onto either end of the chainsaw bar. You use the adjustments designed into the slabbing jig to get the bar level, then the main vertical adjustment on the Torque Workcentre to set the blade height, and therefore the slab thickness.

With very little effort, you are ready to slab to your heart’s content, and for some extra money on the side, there are many other woodworkers out there jealous of your workcentre and willing to pay for you to slab their logs for them as well.

The Torque Workcentre – not only a crosscut and rip saw table, or an overhead router with pattern-copying ability, a thicknessing machine, and slab planer, but now also capable of producing the slabs for you from materials you can find.

Let the age of Hunter-Gathering woodworker return! At least for proud owners of the Torque Workcentre.

The Chainsaw Blade

Dropped into ACE Saw Service on the way home, with my Husky in tow to see if I could get a blade more suitable for slabbing, such as a ripping blade.

After sorting out the most suitable blade that is available, I got taken into the workshop to see what they actually have out back, and was surprised just how much machinery they have, and the range of services they provide.  Despite the large, Paul Bunyan sized chainsaw out front of the store, the range of Stihl saws in the showroom, and the extensive chainsaw museum upstairs, they also do knife, blade and chainsaw sharpenings (as well as servicing)

One thing that caught my eye was some very large circular saw blades they were working on – 600mm+ that are apparently from the firewood industry.  I was surprised – thought that oversized method for cutting up firewood would have been killed off by the overly ambitious OHS industry and regs.

Outside was a very large blade – over 1 metre diameter.  Apparently even when the blades reach end-of-life, the steel gets used in other items.  Shame – I’d love to get a couple of these large blades to mount on either side of the shed door!

The chain that came with my saw looks something like this one

Every link between those that has the teeth have a riser to try to minimise the likelihood of a kickback, particularly a bar-tip kickback.  This sort of chain is not used by professionals, and it increases the amount of load on the chainsaw, and given the ones used by homeowners are already likely to be underpowered this just exasperates the situation (for the sake of safety).

The more traditional chain looks like this

and this is what I picked up.  There isn’t a dedicated ripping blade that will fit my chainsaw.  A ripping blade has an additional spacer, and the tooth angle is decreased from 20-30 degrees down to 5 degrees.  As the blade needs sharpening, I will work it towards this optimum cutting angle.  One other thing I learned from ACE is just how much of the tooth can be used up in sharpening before the blade needs replacing.  You can be left with only around 2-3mm of tooth before the blade is used up!

Oregon is one of the main producers of chainsaw blades, and are responsible for the modern tooth design.  The original profile was quite different, and not very effective.  The founder of Oregon was doing a lot of investigating, and found a wood-boring larva that was very effective at getting through the timber.

By duplicating the C shaped ‘jaws’ of the larva, the start of the modern chainsaw blade was born.

I wonder how many of these larva have since met their demise at the hands of the very tooth profile they inspired?

Picking up a slab

In many sheds (and parties, and sports clubs) down under, that’d raise connotations of an end of the productive side of the day, and the cracking of a few favourite beverages is about to commence.  But for woodworkers, there is also the possibility that it means just that – the acquisition of a large flat slice of timber, usually cut by someone else who has more specialised toys than in the average shed.

However, if you own (or are considering) the Torque Workcentre, it is not out of reach, as the slabbing attachment gives the typical workshop the ability to claim very useable timbers from the very trees in which it grows.

The attachment has 2 main parts – two clamps that attach to the main arm on the TWC, and securely clamp a chainsaw between them.  About 4″ of the chainsaw bar length is lost in this, so a 16″ chainsaw can slab a maximum width of 12″.  The bigger the chainsaw, the more powerful the motor, the larger the slab you can manage.

There is a block on either side of the bar (narrower than the width of the bar, so as not to touch the chainsaw teeth) that hold the chainsaw firm, and with one at either end of the bar, it is locked in tight.

The position is probably different from chainsaw to chainsaw, but a hole through to, or scalloped out area near the chainsaw would be useful so blade adjustments can be done without the need to remove the chainsaw from the jig.

I’d also like to see some form of oil reservoir mounted above the chain with a controllable feed rate, as the normal chain lubrication method being gravity fed is rather ineffective with the chainsaw perpetually on its side.  However, these are all refinements to the basic operation.

I started with a lump of camphor laurel (yes, oh Roving Reporter, THE lump of CL – you’ll have to find an alternate seat!) that I picked up for $10 a couple of years ago, and secured it to the TWC.  Although this piece is short enough to pass through a resawing operation on the bandsaw, it works well as a test piece here.  With the chainsaw bar levelled out, and the depth of cut set, I was ready for a first pass.

The first cut was set very shallow – I only wanted to take off enough to flat-spot the log, so it would sit more securely on the workbench for further slices.

As the chainsaw bit in, the unmistakable aroma of camphor wafted through the shed, undiminished by the continuous air filtration of the Microclene unit, or even the head protection afforded by the Purelite Respirator (I geared up a bit for this) – I’d have to have used a carbon filter to extract that, but it isn’t unpleasant (although my wife strongly disagreed when she made a surprise visit, committing the cardinal sin of interrupting shed time 😦 😉 )  Even a couple of hours later when I walked past the outside of the shed, the smell was still very much in evidence!

With the first cut complete, the log was flipped over for the first slab to be cut.

One of the problems I always have, is getting timber that is thick enough when I go shopping – like purchasing steak from the supermarket, they are sold so measly thin, on the (probably correct) assumption that people will buy more quantity, rather than quality (3 thin steaks sells better than 2 thick ones).  This isn’t an issue when you do it yourself, and in the case of slabbing a trunk, you can cut the slab as thick as you like.  And you can also choose whether you want regularly sawn timber, or quarter sawn.

Not an option you normally get from a box-hardware store.  For the same reason – a quarter sawn log is more expensive (more timber is wasted) and the average shopper doesn’t distinguish, other than on the price.

There are plenty of ripples across the surface from the cut, but a few quick passes through the drum sander got rid of them without a problem (I used the drum sander to avoid the snipe from the thicknesser on a short board).

Finally, it was off to the new workbench, and firing up of the Festool ETS 150/5 (random orbital sander)

Hard to see here, but a quick rub down with a wood oil (the ol’ Triton oil in this case) really picked out the details.  I didn’t actually need to oil it yet, other than my own curiosity – the board will head over to the tablesaw to cut it to size for the next project, and get whatever finish is applied to that, but I just wanted to really see how the details responded, especially the spalting, to a bit of oil.

Seeing what the Chain Saw

Just before deciding to waste an afternoon getting a finger tended to, I had been trying the new Husqvarna out slicing up a bit of firewood (gathered from the side of the road years ago).

Chainsaw went very well – slicing easily through what now looks like to be spotted gum.  Instead of destined for the fireplace, I guess this cube is now going to become something a bit more interesting.  No idea what yet.  That’s the problem with being a woodworker – even something destined for the fireplace gets assessed whether it is better diverted to the shed!

The clamp I am using here is one of the original (Australian made!!) Superjaws.  It has the upgraded (newer) version of the log jaws that bite strongly into the log, and where there is a heavy, soft bark, these jaws bite right through.  An excellent tool to take to the job site where you need to make the job of chopping up firewood a lot safer (that is just one of the jobs I use the SJ for).

I’m quite pleased with the Husky as well – about as powerful as you can get on a 10A supply, and although you can get larger petrol chainsaws with more power, longer bars, this one did the job.  Perhaps needing a bit more time to complete a cut required (although to get more power in a petrol model would cost a lot more), but for a home user- an excellent tool.

There is a definite advantage to the convenience of an electric saw, especially in the shed.  Not having to get the engine running, dealing with fumes etc.

Just another look at those jaws.  The rear jaw is singular, so the timber/log is held in a triangular pinch – no point trying to use jaws with 4 points – ever seen a log with truly parallel sides?

I did set the saw into the Torque Workcentre slabbing attachment this weekend, but didn’t get any results to write about.  Will have to do some more experiments to work out how to get the best out of the attachment.  It clamps the chain bar well – certainly feels like a secure arrangement, but couldn’t seem to get the saw to cut.  I know it works well when freehand – especially given what it did to the spotted gum (where I tried both rips and crosscuts), so some more testing needed.  It could be I didn’t have the blade parallel to the table, or the test piece I decided to use was too green/gummy or something.  I’m tending to wonder about the parallelism because about 1/2 way through the cut I was seeing an increasing wavy surface – indicative of a blade trying to cut in one direction, and forced to cut in another, but I didn’t have time to pursue this further.

First Cuts

Other than the unfortunate premature end to the day’s activities, I did get to give the new Husqvarna 321 a bit of a tryout.  Very nice, very sharp.  It has a very soft start, so when you pull the trigger it takes a while to respond (I’m sure less than a second, but seems longer).  I did some crosscuts and rips and it handled both easily.  The blade is a skip-tooth design, so has no problem with ripping it seems.

These cuts were all freehand, and got close to maximum capacity on one rip cut – still fine, had to slow down the cut a bit, but got nowhere near stalling.

It is definitely interesting having an electric chainsaw – it is ready to go when you want it.  No need to keep the motor running (let alone getting the motor started).  Much quieter, no fumes. But that first point is a biggie – when using a petrol chainsaw, I’d typically set up to do a number of cuts at the same time, and would think twice about starting the saw for a one-off slice.  Whereas, with an electric, you can pick it up, do a cut, put it down for an extended period before using it again.  It completely changes your attitude to and opinion of chainsaws.  They can be a convenient woodshop tool, and not just something for cutting up firewood.

321EL Husqvarna

Picked up this chainsaw from Clayton Mowers yesterday in preparation for slabbing on the Torque Workcentre.

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It is electric, which has advantages and disadvantages. Limited to a 16″ blade, it is 2000w, or the equivalent of a 2.8HP / 45cc petrol. That is still pretty punchy so it’ll be interesting to see how well it goes.

Not going to have the fumes etc in the shed that I would have otherwise have gotten with a petrol unit, and with Clayton Mowers running a Husky special at the time, as well as some extra horse trading, I got it with change from $440, including bar oil. Also means I will be able to use it in situations where OHS regs would otherwise prevent its use (demos, woodshows etc).

For the equivalent power & bar size in petrol would have cost $850

My preference would have been for a 24″ chainsaw, but then in a cheap brand it is over a grand, and close to $2k for a decent saw. So in context, doesn’t seem at all bad for such a reputable brand.

Now to commission it- certainly will be easy to start!

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