Tip Truck

The first project out of the workshop is proving to be fun (aren’t they all?) being a tip truck that I am making (and designing as I go).  It is meant to be for a magazine article, but with the combination of trying to get the shed functional, demands of work, and family, I might have missed the deadline.  Never-the-less, it was good to be ‘forced’ to get back to what the workshop is really about.  Murdering electrons while making sawdust.

It has been a great little project to commission the SawStop on, and that has been fun in itself (as my previous post eluded to).

truck-2A number of blade tilts (guard removed for clarity, and in this instance to stop the project hanging up on it, but note the riving knife instead, which worked perfectly).


Making something out of your head is always an interesting evolution – lots of contemplation working out what is needed next, some false starts, but all in all, successful

Given (from the title), it is a tip truck, I needed wheels, and although you can make a round wheel on a tablesaw, I don’t see it being a good practice.  SawStop or no, I’m not sticking my hand that close to any spinning blade.  Instead, I went to my old trusted solution – wheel cutting bits from Carb-i-tool.  I initially made them all the same size, but the front just looked wrong, so they were made with a larger diameter cutter.  The rear wheels were made thick (about 30mm thick), so after the drill press, I headed over to the bandsaw to roughly cut the wheels free, then to the Comet lathe and the pen mandrel as it happens, to finish the job.  As a system it worked well, and the tip of a skew chisel was used to cut grooves around the circumference as tread.


The truck is still “rough and ready” – it’d take about the same amount of time to finish it (which is normal for a project, I find).

I stuck with my standard principle (that I try to apply as often as is practicable) that it is only wood and glue (axles and all).

truck-1It is a good size – about 400mm long, 130mm across, and about 180mm high (to the top of the cab).  Functional too – wheels turn, the tray tips, tailgate swings open.

It will be pretty durable too, but as the weakest component are the axles (both on the wheels and also the tray), and they are simply dowel, easily repaired.  I think it is always good to consider damage and repairability when making kids toys – you want something that will last the distance, even if there are a few repairs required along the way.

7 Responses

  1. Stu,
    Does the riving knife on the saw stop stay at the same height of the blade as you raise and lower the blade or is it the fixed height type?

    • That is definitely the beauty of the SawStop riving knife. It is such a quick and easy job to switch between the riving knife and the full guard, and both rise and fall with the blade. The riving knife sits ‘just’ below the top of the blade (at any height), so it performs the role you need (preventing binding on the back of the blade, or offcuts working into behind the blade to be flung mercilessly at you), and still allows you to do partial-depth cuts (dados, grooves etc)

      • Excellent.

        One of the issues holding me back from buying a sawstop is that they consider the blade stopping capability so important that they do not pay much attention to providing details on the other features.

        I am interested in seeing how well it connects to a dust extractor, again the literature says it has great dust extraction but I am yet to find a saw on the market that says their dust extraction is lousy and you should go elsewhere (the Triton sawdust bag springs to mind here)


        • I’ll be doing a full expose’ on the saw in the near future, looking at the myriad of other features also available. It really does stand up to close scrutiny across the board – I bought the TS10L on its features, and the SawStop equals (or betters) it across the board, in addition to the extra safety device. Not to say the TS10L is not a great saw. Both give many other saws on the market a real run for their money. If it wasn’t equal on all other areas to my TS10L, I wouldn’t have considered upgrading – like buying a car, I need it to do its primary job well, safety are the extra boxes worth ticking, but if some of the primary functions are not there, then you wouldn’t buy it anyway.

  2. Nice lookin tipper you’ve made there Stu….But how did you do the back wheels please….cheers

  3. To strengthen my wheels I use 12mm axles I drill a 12.5mm hole halfway into the back of the wheel and then use an axle peg from the front to secure it, the 12mm dowel takes all the force not the peg

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