Deconstructing the Dust Kit

When I saw the kit for the new Carbatec dust collection system (and the clear tube setup), it wasn’t going to be long before I was fitting it to the shed.  And the timing is rather appropriate – the system needed a revamp with the various item moves that have been happening.  A dust system needs to be flexible, both to deal with vibration and minor machine moves as well as being able to be reconfigured with minimal fuss when a new arrangement is required.

I use flexible hose in some cases to maximise the flexibility of the system, but it does result in quite a bit of suction loss so where I can I use straight tubes, with flexible pieces near couplings.

In the new Carbatec kit are a who swag of connections

What's in the box?

T sections, 90 degree corners, 45s, blast gates, adapter rings, mounts and 8m of clear tube

Curves, Corners, Clamps and Clear Stuff

It would do a small setup, but mine isn’t small!  I’m going to use the clear trunking where it is sensible to determine that flow is occurring (and showing where there are blockages), so for the long, straight runs it makes sense.

Extra accessories acquired

The reconfiguration will also include the blast gate mounts I got from Rockler early this year, and reusing some of the PVC downpipe I have been using in the shed until now.  The dust collector is again in the lower shed, and so I am back to the old problem: how to remotely start and stop it, given that it has a no-volt release on the switch, and the branded remote control is over $300.  I don’t want to have to go into the second shed just to start the collector, and I don’t want to have to do something like have a broom handle passing from one shed to the other to try to hit the start (like a ‘remote control’ from one of those US sitcoms, or cartoon shows)!

Starting the refit

I’ve started at the tablesaw, and I am trying to do each part of the setup just that little better.  The previous setup design was good, but having the tube running along the ground meant it has always been a bit in the way.  Lifting it up to just below the table means it is out of the way for storage under the tablesaw wing (and is the level I want for the tubing for the rest of the run).

Rockler Blast Gate Mount

I’ve screwed one of the blast gate mounts directly to the back of the tablesaw.  This specific gate at the back of the saw will normally remain shut – it allows access to the length of tube at the back of the saw in even of blockages, and also to plug in flexible hose for cleaning up that end of the shed (and I suspect I will still use a temporary run to the jointer, rather than try to run a full length of tube across the entire shed just to get its waste!

More to come as I progress the system.

7 Responses

  1. Hi Stu Long time reader first reply
    My extractor ( 2hp Carbtec) is at the other end of my garage behind my tablesaw. I have pluged the extractor into a powerpoint near the saw via an extension lead and locked the extractors switch on with a small block of wood and a cable tie. Meaning that by turning the powerpoint on and off I can control the extractor from the operating side of my saw.
    I have also seen units that fit into a powerpoint and allow you to turn the powerpoint on and off remotley in a Bunnings catalogue.

    I am also having alot of trouble with my Carba-Tec Blast gates filling up with sawdust and not closing properly any ideas.

    • Second question first. Solution is here

      The solution for the starter is one that had occurred to me – was wondering if there were any adverse consequences. I was thinking about a solenoid operated remotely, but seemed overkill for a simple problem. Getting the switch replaced with one that doesn’t release on no-voltage might be a solution as well.

      I use one type of remote starter for the shed lights, but for some reason it cannot cope with starting motors – have to find a better brand.

  2. Great set-up Stu, but How much??/Went to Carbatec site for price on TheDust Cyclone Unit.. nothing until last week .thanks for your posts helps me to choose a great system.

  3. Looks good. One day I’ll get to ducting the dusty. I’m surprise they have T sections in the kit. My understanding is that they were a big no no, and that Y joints are significantly more efficient.

  4. Stu,
    MLCS have some switches that you may be able to use to remotely start /stop your dust extractor. You may need an electrician to wire the switch to your shed and bypass the no volt relay at the dust extractor. Or better still get an electrician to relocate the no volt stop/start from your extractor to your shed.

    • The only question is, which would be cheaper: the electrician so I can relocate the switch, or enable the MLCS switch, or the overpriced remote (at $300)

      Wonder why there are so many wires in the dusty’s switch going to the motor? – Not that I’ve looked at the idea of relocating it myself 😉

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