To start the process, I’ve been preparing the burl slab itself, and the first part of that was the recent YouTube Chronicles video, running the burl through the drum sander.
Next, I took the random orbital sander to the surface, starting with the unusually coarse (for me) 80 grit paper (the burl is very hard), and continued through the grits to 400. For previous clocks I would normally oil the surface (with a burnishing oil), but in this case I didn’t think it would be needed to get the grain to show up, and I didn’t know how the Liquid Glass would respond to it.
I’ve then flipped the board over to mill out a cavity for the clock mechanism.

Creating the Template
I needed a template to route out the opening, so started down the tradition path – marking out the opening, drilling holes, cutting with a jigsaw, filing off the jigsaw marks, and all the while I was thinking to myself – there has to be a better way. Then I remembered the Sonicrafter that I previewed for the manufacturers – one of the high vibrating speed cutting tools (takes different blades etc, the well known version is the Fein). This one is Worx brand (the bigger brother of the Rockwell that has recently hit the Aussie market) It will be in the marketplace soon fwiw. I gave it a try, and it worked like a dream – the perfect tool for the job. In future it will be the first tool I turn to for jig creation! I made the template out of MDF, and before you ask why I didn’t just cut the actual opening this way: burl is really hard, and I think any of these cutters would probably struggle, and secondly, and more importantly, I needed the opening in the burl to be a partial depth only.
A big reason for me using this tool, is I can cut a square opening, with straight sides a lot easier than my older methods!
The opening in the template is larger than the actual clock mechanism, as it needs to take into account the distance between the outside of the template and the router bit. I set the router bit depth, taking into account the thickness of the burl, the length of shaft of the clock, and the various components that are attached.

Router Bit Depth Set
I used the Wixey Digital Height Gauge to set the height accurately. So once I had the template, this was clamped to the burl, and the opening created with the router.

Mechanism Cavity

A perfect opening (centre still to be removed)
The above-image has the outside routed to full depth, but as you can see the middle area needs another pass.

Back of Burl Clock
So this is the back complete. I tend to leave it raw so I can see the difference in the finished front and the raw back when I want to. I know this is not best practice, if for no other reason than it can encourage warping when the stock is thin. Still, it’s a choice I make (in some circumstances).
Oh, and for the doubters, yes I do use my JawHorse, all the time, and for almost every project!
Next post will be about finishing the front.
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Filed under: Techniques, Timber | Tagged: Burl, Clock, JawHorse, Rockwell, Router, Routing, Sonicrafter, Template | Leave a comment »